The magic of Ajrakh: Natural dyes and hand block perfected on Modal Silk
GI-Tag: 1050, Year: 2023-2024 https://search.ipindia.gov.in/GIRPublicSearch/Application/Details/1050
Where it all began?
Ajrakh Modal Silk sarees are one of the oldest naturally dyed, hand-crafted wooden-block sarees. The craft comes from the desert regions of Kutch in Gujarat, from communities such as the Khatri artisans.
The word Ajrakh has multiple origins. Some trace it to the Arabic word Azrak, meaning blue, reflecting the indigo shades that dominate traditional Ajrakh. Others associate it with the phrase Aaj Rakh (keep it for tomorrow), referring to the many stages of washing, drying, printing, and dyeing that require patience over several days.
What Is Modal Silk?
Modal is a semi-synthetic fibre made from the cellulose of beechwood trees. The wood pulp is processed into a soft, breathable fibre known for its smooth and breathable texture.
Modal silk provides a beautiful drape and a subtle sheen to the saree, which makes it a go-to saree for festivals, office and many other occasions.
How is Ajrakh Modal Silk saree made?
There are several steps before we can call a saree Ajrakh Modal Silk. It includes washing, resist printing, natural dyeing, drying and re-printing. Traditional Ajrakh printing involves around 14-16 stages and can take several weeks for one saree.
Indigo, pomegranate, and other pulps are used to get the earthy tones for Ajrakh Sarees. Since these are hand block printed, a slight misalignment of the blocks can affect the symmetry of the design.
Cost of an Ajrakh Modal Silk Saree?
Authentic, naturally dyed hand block prints generally command higher prices because they require significantly more time and skilled craftsmanship than screen-printed alternatives.
Today, Ajrakh is printed on cotton, silk, modal, linen, and other natural fabrics.
Printed Modal Sarees ₹2,500–₹5,000
Hand Block Printed Ajrakh Modal Silk ₹5,000–₹10,000
Natural Dye Ajrakh Modal Silk ₹8,000–₹15,000
Master Artisan ₹15,000+
Choosing an Ajrakh Modal Silk Saree?
Choosing an authentic Ajrakh Modal Silk saree is not only about owning a beautiful textile but also supporting artisan communities and celebrating a living tradition that continues to thrive in modern India.
See you in the next blog, where I’ll take you through the story of one more GI-tagged saree!